Arica is Chile´s northernmost city, and you can tell a border must be nearby from the extensive military presence in the area. Not surprising really when you learn that this particular border was created when Chile annexed the region in the War of the Pacific (1879-1884) from neighbouring Bolivia and Peru. This conflict is far from ancient history - we were told that a current Peruvian political party runs on the platform of taking Arica back from Chile by force.
The green valley floor against the desert hills.
Candelabra cactus are the first sign of life as we climb higher above sea level...
...and vizcachas in the rocks.
These green blobs are everywhere in the altiplano -
apparently they are a type of tree, that only grows 1mm a year.
Putre where we stayed the night at 3800m.
A bofedal - a cold, spongy swamp.
The church at Parinacota - a typical Andean village.
The view from the village.
Lake Chungara.
The wildlife on the frozen edges of the lake.
Arica was also the base for our first venture into the altiplano of the Andes - average height 3300m above sea level, but in this region parts rise to 4800m. This was one BIG headache. Not a metaphorical headache - a real, skull-cracking, nausea inducing headache. All from the altitude. The scenery was worth it, but we went as high as 5000m above sea level, and we felt it. Walking for more than 5 minutes, and definitely any activity uphill was really really difficult!!
The trip started in Arica, and then wound through a valley full of farms rising out of the sand. As we climbed higher the green disappeared, leaving only the various shades of desert sand and rock. We passed along an old road that hugged the edge of the cliff only to be greeted by police as we rejoined the highway. Apparently the old road is a popular route for drug smugglers who are bringing coca down from the valleys outside La Paz in Bolivia to the port at Arica.Once we were on the highway you could tell that it was the main route linking La Paz to the Arican port (the war left Bolivia land-locked and dependant upon the use of the Chilean port - for a price of course). Trucks screamed past in both directions, and there was plenty of evidence of accidents resulting from driving too fast on a fairly precarious road.
Signs of life started to appear as we climbed higher - first cactus, then the classic tufts of yellow grass typical of the altiplano, then small rivulets of water in the green pockets they call bofedals, and finally glimpses of snowcapped peaks in the distance. The water and grass support various altiplano animals - we saw vicuna (a wild species of camel from which llamas and alpacas were domesticated) and vizcachas (essentially a high altitude rabbit) and birds birds birds. And Lolly - the biggest llama I have ever seen (and by now I have seen a few). We ate some alpaca, or was it llama? Either way, it was very very lean, and tasted like red meat.
We spent the night in Putre, at 3800m, and the following day visited Parinacota (a typical Andean village at ) and Lago Chungara in Lauca National Park, right near the Bolivian border at 5000m. It was all very spectacular, if a little cold!
The trip started in Arica, and then wound through a valley full of farms rising out of the sand. As we climbed higher the green disappeared, leaving only the various shades of desert sand and rock. We passed along an old road that hugged the edge of the cliff only to be greeted by police as we rejoined the highway. Apparently the old road is a popular route for drug smugglers who are bringing coca down from the valleys outside La Paz in Bolivia to the port at Arica.Once we were on the highway you could tell that it was the main route linking La Paz to the Arican port (the war left Bolivia land-locked and dependant upon the use of the Chilean port - for a price of course). Trucks screamed past in both directions, and there was plenty of evidence of accidents resulting from driving too fast on a fairly precarious road.
Signs of life started to appear as we climbed higher - first cactus, then the classic tufts of yellow grass typical of the altiplano, then small rivulets of water in the green pockets they call bofedals, and finally glimpses of snowcapped peaks in the distance. The water and grass support various altiplano animals - we saw vicuna (a wild species of camel from which llamas and alpacas were domesticated) and vizcachas (essentially a high altitude rabbit) and birds birds birds. And Lolly - the biggest llama I have ever seen (and by now I have seen a few). We ate some alpaca, or was it llama? Either way, it was very very lean, and tasted like red meat.
We spent the night in Putre, at 3800m, and the following day visited Parinacota (a typical Andean village at ) and Lago Chungara in Lauca National Park, right near the Bolivian border at 5000m. It was all very spectacular, if a little cold!
The green valley floor against the desert hills.Carl keeps an eye out for water.
Candelabra cactus are the first sign of life as we climb higher above sea level...... then grass...
... then glimpses of snow-capped Andean peaks.
Lolly the llama took a shine to Carl.
Vicuna amongst the grass...
...and vizcachas in the rocks.These green blobs are everywhere in the altiplano -apparently they are a type of tree, that only grows 1mm a year.
Putre where we stayed the night at 3800m.A bofedal - a cold, spongy swamp.
The church at Parinacota - a typical Andean village.
The view from the village.Lake Chungara.The wildlife on the frozen edges of the lake.
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